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RC plane buyer's guide

By Paul Walsh Last reviewed

RC planes are one of the most rewarding parts of the hobby: a well-flown trainer looks graceful, and landing your first plane cleanly is a moment you remember. Choosing the right first plane makes that moment come much sooner.

Step 1: choose the type

Type What it's for First plane?
High-wing trainer Learning: stable, slow, forgiving Yes
Park flyer Small, light, flown in big parks or fields Sometimes
Motor glider Soaring, relaxed flying Sometimes, in calm weather
Low-wing sport Aerobatics, faster flying Second plane
Warbird Scale Spitfires, P-51s and others Later
3D / aerobatic Hovering and tumbling Later
EDF jet Fast, scale jets Much later

A high-wing trainer is the right first plane for nearly everyone. With the wing above the fuselage, the plane naturally wants to level itself.

Step 2: choose a size

  • Under 600mm: micro planes for halls and very calm days. Cheap and fun, but blown about by wind.
  • 1 to 1.5m: the sweet spot for a first outdoor plane. Handles a light breeze, easy to see.
  • 1.5m and up: smoother still, but needs more space and a bigger car.

Step 3: stabilisation

Gyro stabilisation is the biggest single help for a new pilot. Look for:

  • Self-levelling beginner mode.
  • Bank and pitch limits so it can't roll over.
  • Panic recovery to level the plane at the flick of a switch.

Systems include Horizon's SAFE (E-flite, HobbyZone), FMS Reflex and Arrows Vector. See gyro-stabilised RC planes.

Step 4: foam or balsa?

Almost every first plane today is foam: tough, cheap to repair and ready to fly. Balsa and built-up models are lovely to fly but slower to repair. See foam vs balsa RC planes.

Step 5: RTF, BNF or PNP?

  • RTF: everything, including a transmitter. Often "Basic" versions leave out the battery and charger, so check.
  • BNF: no transmitter; needs a compatible radio.
  • PNP: no receiver or transmitter.

For a first plane without a radio, RTF is simplest. See RC transmitters explained if you'd rather choose your own radio.

Step 6: spares

You'll need propellers for certain, and probably a cowl, undercarriage or wing parts at some point. Buy from a brand with UK spares: E-flite, FMS and Volantex are all sold in the UK.

Step 7: the whole budget

  • The plane: about £80 to £120 for a small gyro trainer; £165 to £390 for a 1.1 to 1.5m trainer.
  • Batteries: most trainers use 3S packs, about £15 to £35 each. Buy two or three.
  • Charger: a balance charger, from about £45. See best LiPo chargers.
  • Spare propellers.
  • Flyer ID (free) and Operator ID (£12.34 a year) from the CAA.
  • Club membership if you join one.

Step 8: where you'll fly

A trainer needs a big, open field away from people, houses and roads. A club site is ideal. See where to fly an RC plane in the UK and the UK rules for RC models.

What to avoid as a first plane

  • Warbirds, jets and low-wing aerobatic planes.
  • Tiny planes if you'll fly outdoors in typical UK weather.
  • Anything without UK spares.
  • Very cheap planes with no stabilisation.

For specific models, see best RC planes for beginners. All the plane guides are on the RC planes hub.

Frequently asked questions

What is the best type of RC plane for a beginner?

A high-wing trainer: the wing on top makes it naturally stable, and it flies slowly. Gyro stabilisation with a panic button makes it easier still.

What size RC plane should I start with?

Around 1 to 1.5 metres wingspan is the sweet spot: big enough to cope with a breeze and be easy to see, small enough to fit in a car.

Do I need a Flyer ID for an RC plane?

Yes, if it weighs 100g or more and you fly outdoors in the UK. Most trainers also need an Operator ID because they weigh 250g or more.

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