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RC car buyer's guide

By Paul Walsh Last reviewed

RC cars are the easiest part of the hobby to get into: no rules about where you can drive (beyond common sense and permission), no learning to hover, and fun from the first minute. But there's a huge range, and it's easy to buy a car that doesn't suit where you'll actually drive.

Step 1: toy grade or hobby grade?

Toy-grade cars from supermarkets and toy shops are cheap and fun for a while, but usually can't be repaired: when something breaks, the car is finished.

Hobby-grade cars from brands like Traxxas, Arrma and Tamiya cost more but every part can be replaced or upgraded. If you want a car that lasts, buy hobby grade.

Step 2: where will you drive?

Surface Best type
Grass, gravel, rough ground Monster truck, short course truck, truggy
Tarmac, car parks, smooth paths Buggy, touring car, drift car
Rocks, gardens, trails Crawler or trail truck
A club track Buggy, touring car or truggy, depending on the track
Indoors 1/24 to 1/18 crawlers and mini cars

The types are explained in types of RC car.

Step 3: choose a scale

Scale Typical length Suits
1/24 to 1/28 15 to 20cm Indoors, desks, tiny crawlers
1/16 to 1/18 25 to 30cm Gardens, younger drivers
1/10 About 40 to 55cm Most people; best parts support
1/8 About 50 to 60cm+ Big bashing, racing
1/5 Around 1m Petrol giants

More in RC car scales explained.

Step 4: electric or nitro?

Almost everyone should start electric: quieter, cleaner, easier and usable in far more places. Nitro is noisier, needs engine tuning and costs more to run. See nitro vs electric RC cars.

Step 5: brushed or brushless?

Brushed motors are cheaper and slower, which suits a first car. Brushless motors are much faster and need almost no maintenance, but they break parts quickly in inexperienced hands. See brushed vs brushless RC cars.

Step 6: RTR or kit?

  • RTR (ready to run): built, with radio. Usually the best first choice.
  • Kit: you build it, often adding radio, servo and electronics. Great for learning how it all works; Tamiya kits are the classic example.

Step 7: check spares

Every car breaks parts: driveshafts, suspension arms, spur gears, tyres. Buy a car whose parts you can get in the UK within a few days.

Step 8: budget for the whole thing

  • The car: about £130 to £170 for a good brushed 1/10, £260 to £360 for a tougher RTR, more for brushless.
  • A second battery: £20 to £45.
  • A charger if the included one is slow or NiMH-only: see best LiPo chargers.
  • Spares over time.

If the car comes with a NiMH pack, read NiMH vs LiPo before upgrading.

Where to drive

There's no licence or registration for RC cars, but you need the landowner's permission and should keep away from people, pets and roads. Many parks don't allow them. Local clubs and tracks are the best places to run. See joining an RC club.

What to avoid

  • Toy-grade cars if you want something that lasts.
  • Brushless 3S and 6S monsters as a first car.
  • Brands with no UK spares.
  • Nitro, unless you have somewhere to run it and enjoy engines.

For specific models, see best RC cars for beginners and best RC cars for kids. All the car guides are on the RC cars hub.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between toy-grade and hobby-grade RC cars?

Hobby-grade cars have replaceable parts, proper suspension and upgradable electronics, and every part can be bought separately. Toy-grade cars are cheaper but usually can't be repaired.

What scale RC car should I buy?

1/10 is the most popular and best supported. 1/16 to 1/18 suits gardens and younger drivers; 1/8 is bigger, faster and more expensive to run.

Should I buy a brushed or brushless RC car?

Brushed for a first car: cheaper, slower and easier to control. Brushless is much faster and suits a second car or an upgrade.

Do I need anything else with a ready-to-run car?

Usually a second battery and a proper charger. Some RTRs come without a battery; check the box contents.

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    Types of RC car

    Buggies, truggies, monster trucks, short course, crawlers, touring and drift cars: what each is built for and which suits the way you want to drive.

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    What 1/10, 1/8 and the other scales mean in practice: size, speed, where you can drive, battery choice and how much each costs to run.